Every Gibson book I've read has had details in it that have made me turn to the web to check them out. Loden was one and in Idoru I came across one exchange that mentions the "stich count" in Brooks Brothers Oxford shirts. I've encountered bed sheets are sold by thread count in the past but not shirts. It's not that I doubt Mr G but I wanted to know more.
I had no idea that, in some cases, the size of the thread used in the weave determined the name of the garment. It's actually pretty complicated working out which is better when dealing with single and two-ply yarns. Poplin is no longer a mystery to me.
The only query I have is about whether it is possible to spot the right stitch count. I guess you can if you are a tailor or know what you are looking for. Would that be a way to spot the fakes - the stitch count in their shirts? At a high society do? Hmm